Why Secret Valley Is So Named

Secret Valley Ranch aka French, 1936–C.H. Bennett

After several posts concerning the Secret Valley CCC camp, a reader wanted to know why Secret was so named. The name was applied to region by the late 1860s.

In 1927, when Frank Heath traveled through the region he wrote: “Wild hay along southwest side of Secret Valley—which so named by a poetical cowboy on account of its many secret springs.”   On September 20,  1864, Melissa Turner recorded the first land claim in Secret Valley. On December 6, 1888, the Lassen Advocate published this descriptive account: “Secret Valley lies about twenty-five miles northeast of Susanville and is surrounded on all sides by mountains, covered sparsely by timber, although there is sufficient juniper in the
immediate vicinity to provide fuel for a long time.  Lumber is hauled
from this valley. The land, in this valley, is great part sagebrush soil bearing the large, thick brush, by which we of Northern California have learned to distinguish as fertile soil.  There is, however, considerable meadow land, largely comprised in the ranches of J. B. McKissick, J.J. Tipton and James Sellick, water altogether with springs, which are quite warm, although the water does not by any means approach the boiling point.  Within the enclosure of T. Ashby are seventy-five springs. Mr. Ashby has raised this year about sixty thousand pounds of fine potatoes which grow in Secret to a large size and of a very fine quality.”

On a final note there is a small family cemetery in Secret Valley, and interred there is John Best “Buster” the proclaimed World’s First Champion Cowboy. in 1876.

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Those Rowdy Camp Followers

Construction of Miller's cut near Susanville 1913. B.R. Zimmerman collection
Construction of Miller’s cut near Susanville 1913. B.R. Zimmerman collection

Daily life got crazy in Susanville when the railroad arrived in 1913. Numerous discussions were held to make the town “dry.” It was the belief of some that if there was a ban on alcohol, that it would rid the town of certain elements. The City was not so keen  on the other hand, as it received most of its operating revenue from liquor licenses. Continue reading Those Rowdy Camp Followers

Ward Lake—One of Many Reservoirs

Ward Lake, October 26, 1969. Photo by D.B. Martin

By 1889, there was a dam building craze, like the region has never seen before or after. The Union Land & Stock Company proposed five reservoirs for the Madeline Plains. On the Susan River three dams were proposed, two were built—Hog Flat and McCoy Flat. There was the proposed Lake Greeno on Long Valley Creek and Skedaddle Dam on Skedaddle Creek. In addition, the tapping of Eagle Lake was still a work in progress.

In 1889, the Balls Canyon Reservoir Company was formed to build a dam on Secret Creek where it enters the Honey Lake Valley, about five miles west of Litchfield. The company employed surveyor, Frank Gates Ward (1857-1895), to survey a dam and reservoir site.  In 1889-90, the first reservoir was constructed. In February 1890, a flood washed out that dam. As one observer noted, the waters of Secret Creek began rising at a rate of two feet an hour and within three hours the 27 foot high structure, that measured 150 feet in length, was swept away. The company planned to rebuild but never did. In 1895, Edward T. Purser took over the project and a new reservoir was constructed, along with a twenty-mile ditch to his property near Wendel.

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Those 1920s Wacky Motorists

Warner Creek bridge en-route to Drakesbad—Sifford Collection

The “Roaring Twenties” of a century ago began with a thud. After World War I the nation dived into an economic recession. By 1922/23 things slowly improved.  In the meantime,  so much had changed with the automobile and highway improvements folks were ready to go out and explore.

In California, local auto clubs held group functions. One of these became known as a ‘socialbility run.” It was a multi-purpose event, to explore, promote and enjoy California’s wonders. Lassen Volcanic National Park dubbed as California’s newest playground, back in the day, drew lots of attention, because it was so unknown.

The Sacramento Chamber of Commerce in conjunction with the Sacramento Motor Dealers Association proposed two socialbility runs to Lasssen Park. The first run on July 4th to Drakesbad and for Labor Day an excursion to Manzanita Lake.

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Some Confusing Railroad History

The abandoned line at Pyramid Lake., Nevada Historical Society 1971

This kind of boggles my mind, that so many railroad historians get something so incredibly wrong.  What I am referring to is the abandonment of the Southern Pacific’s Westwood Branch line between Fernley and Flanigan. First we start off with Jack Bowden whose book the Modoc Line states that the 60 mile segment of track was abandoned in 1963. David Myrick places the date of abandonment in 1962. Eric Moody, the author of a book on Flanigan has the date as 1972!

The 1970 abandonment notice—David Martin

John Signor wrote: “The SP line from Flanigan to Fernley continued to support a once-a-week local until it was discontinued in 1966. Work crews began taking up the line south of Flanigan along Pyramid Lake on October 7, 1970.”

David Martin on one of his forays to Flanigan came across notice of abandonment posted on an old pole, which clearly indicates that the segment was indeed abandoned in 1970 and shortly thereafter the tracks removed.

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Troubled by Inflation?

Stewart House
Susanville’s Stewart House, 1881. It sometimes was used as a hospital. Courtesy of Dallas & Joyce Snider

In 1993, I asked the now late local attorney James E. Pardee if he would write a foreword for my upcoming book Honey Lake Justice: The Neversweats of the 1860s. Jim, of course, obliged. Of course, that was thirty years ago. While recently reviewing what Jim wrote, a lot is still relevant.  The the following was Jim’s opening paragraph.

”We live in an age of excesses—and on occasion it is good to have these pointed out, directly or indirectly, so that we can endeavor to do better the next time around. I am sure that Mr. Purdy didn’t intend to preach or point a finger. However, when you read his book and are brought to realize that people brought suit to recover $63.65 for a month’s lodging , $51.50 for back wages and finally a bar bill for 23 drinks at 25 cents a drink for a total of $5.75; we can’t help but reason that inflation in today’s market has gone mad.”

Tim

“Three Sisters” and Turtle Mountain

Secret Valley CCC Company Clerk on top of Three Sisters, August 1936—C.H. Bennett Collection

While you probably never heard of Shinn Peaks  referred to as the Three Sisters, the men stationed at the Secret Valley CCC camp gave it that name. After all these young men, were from the Midwest, so all the region was foreign to them, and Secret Valley so remote where there was not even a small village or outpost to glean local knowledge. Their view of Shinn Peaks shows three distinct peaks, hence the Three Sisters. Of course, some of the men were so intrigued by the mountain that they climbed to the top.

Another landmark Turtle Mountain, at the lower end of the Honey Lake Valley, which is a prominent extension to Fort Sage Mountain never had a name attached to it for many years. According to Philip Hall (1909-1996), who spent most of his life in nearby Long Valley stated it was “new comers” who arrived when the Sierra Army Depot at Herlong that was established in the early 1940s, when the point was named.

Tim

The Low Water Levels of Eagle Lake

Eagle Lake, 1937

In 1937, twenty years after Eagle Lake reached its historic high of 5125 feet it witnessed its historic low of 5091. That low water level happened again in 1950. Then, many may not realize but in December 2015 the lake reached a new historic low of 5090.54 and was repeated again in December 2022. What is interesting in each of these instances they were followed extremely wet winters.

South shore Eagle Lake, August 7, 1936—C.H. Bennett Collection

Tim

The Odd Origin of the Madeline Cemetery

The grave of P.J. Bickford, Madeline Cemetery, November 6, 1979

This is a kind of strange, short tale., especially since the records are somewhat sketchy. Lassen County records indicate that plots were sold in the Madeline Cemetery on May 3, 1909. Yet it was not until passing of one year old Bobbie MacDonald, on May 11, 1911 who would become the first person buried there. On January 11, 1917 John Bigford donated the land to the county, but it does appear he even owned the property. It was accepted by the county, and which a cemetery map was prepared in 1918. The cemetery received very little use there being only fourteen graves. As far as I know the last person buried there was Chris Laras in 1962.

Tim

Eagle Lake Ice Caves

Ice Caves
The ice caves was featured on the cover of Susanville’s weekly TV guide, August, 1965

Well, it is the middle of summer, and there have been a lot of searches about the ice caves at Eagle Lake. Without further ado, here is a prior post on that topic for your Tuesday Tidbit.

Exploring lava beds, which there is plenty around Northeastern California, there is no telling what a person might find. The Brockman Flat Lava Beds on the west side of Eagle Lake is no exception.

In the early 1950s the Chico State Biological field study set up operations at Spaulding Tract, Eagle Lake. It was in the summer of 1951, that several students explored the lava beds to the south of Spauldings and made their initial discovery of a ice/lava cave.

In 1954, John Wesley Noble penned an article in Collier’s Magazine, The Lake That Time Forgot. The article featured many peculiarities found at Eagle Lake. Noble wrote: A group of Chico graduate students were exploring a huge shore side cavern where Indian tribes hid from avenging white men. Suddenly the biologists’ flashlights flickered on a buff colored insect crawling over the icy black rocks. They captured it, but neither their biology professor nor local 0ld-timers could tell what it is.

Interior view of an Eagle Lake ice cave, 1966.

“Weeks of research finally identified the insect a member of gryllobottoda, a rare ice age cricket-cockroach which lived in America when Pleistocene ice sheets covered more than half the continent. No one seems to know what the insects eat in the icy dark caverns. They should have been sensible and departed when the glaciers receded 20,000 years ago. But here they are, living their refrigerated lives in the caves near the lake.”

Tim

Exploring Lassen County's Past