The demise of Nobles Trail

In 1985, the Neversweat Chapter #1863, E Clampus Vitus restored the Viewland monument.

The Nobles Trail gained attention as part of the possible route of the nation’s first transcontinental road to California. (This not is confused with the transcontinental railroad; think of it as an early day highway.) Shasta County was eager to promote the Nobles route. In fact, in December 1853, Major P.B. Reading was willing to take a group of surveyors in the middle of the winter to survey the road. In 1855, R.T. Sprague of Shasta estimated that it would cost $10,000 to develop the Nobles Trail into a first-class wagon road. Appropriations for this and other roads were submitted to the California Legislature, but languished due to that body’s inaction.

During the late 1850s, various roads were established in Northern California and traffic diminished on the western segment of the trail between Susanville and Manzanita Lake. For reasons unknown, in the fall of 1859 the trail had an unusual spike in usage. In a two-week period, 375 individuals, in sixty-seven wagons, along with about 100,000 head of livestock had crossed the plains and used the Nobles route into Shasta County. The eastern segment from Susanville through Nevada faired much better with heavy use during the late 1850s and most of the 1860s due to the mining activity of southern Idaho and northern Nevada. This traffic ceased in 1869 with the completion of the Central Pacific Railroad and many segments of the Nobles Trail were abandoned. In 1975 the Nobles Trail was listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

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Nobles Emigrant Trail

This sign was located for many years in Lassen Volcanic National Park.

Those who made the overland journey for the California gold rush were faced with many obstacles. One of which was that there were no direct route to the gold fields of Northern California. There was the short-lived Lassen Trail, which had many drawbacks and was quickly abandoned.            

In the summer of 1850 William H. Nobles arrived on the scene with the quest to locate a route to California’s northern sector. In the spring of 1851, Peter Lassen guided Nobles to the Honey Lake Valley. Nobles and Lassen parted company, Nobles then made a thorough evaluation of the country. He found a direct route from Lassen’s Meadows (known today as Rye Patch Reservoir, Nevada) that went in a westerly direction across the Black Rock and Smoke Creek deserts to Honey Lake Valley. From there the course went in a northwestern direction to Pine Creek Valley, making a turn to the west to Butte Lake. Leaving Butte Lake, the trail went along the base of Cinder Cone toward the northern base of Lassen Peak and Manzanita Lake. From that point it continued its westward journey into the Sacramento Valley, to its final destination, the mining town of Shasta. It is interesting to note that Highway 44 parallels the western portion of the Nobles Trail.

In February 1852, Nobles led a party that included Lassen over the route. Nobles hoped they would join him in forming a partnership to develop the new route, but they were not interested. On April 21, 1852, Nobles addressed the citizens of Shasta, informing them that he had indeed discovered a direct route across the mountains. This, he said, would be a great benefit to Shasta and the northern mining communities. Nobles requested a $2,000 guide fee. If the Shasta business community found the route unacceptable, he would decline his commission. On May 3, 1852, Nobles and a group of nine men left Shasta to travel the route. When they reached the Humboldt River at Lassen’s Meadows, the Shasta delegation declared that the new route had more than met their expectations. Nobles received his fee and parted their company.

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Old Barns

Hartson Barn, July 26, 2019

Times change, and what was once useful has served its purpose—old agricultural barns being one. Gone are days when hay bales were stacked in barns by hand—one summer of that was enough for me and went back out in the woods logging. Anyhow, with new equipment for haying and baling, also witnessed new metal barns eliminating the need of manual labor.

The Hartson barn depicted is adjacent to the Dakin Unit of the Honey Lake Wildlife Refuge. Built in the mid-1880s it is distinct from other barns with its breeze way. The southern end, whether it was an add on, is not known. What is interesting the lumber is twenty feet in length, no doubt came from the Cornelision sawmill at Janesville.

Hartson Barn, July 26, 2019

As one can see from this view, the foundation on the south side of the barn has eroded. It is just a matter of time when this relic of the past is no longer.

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Breakfast of Champions

Benjamin Hanson Leavitt – Courtesy of Betty Barry Deal

In what seems like another life time, when I began my research, I interviewed many people on a regular basis. When I look back, there were quite a few individuals who were born in the 1880s. One of those was Alphozene Perry Terril, a granddaughter of Ben Leavitt (1835-1915). Leavitt is considered the father of the Susan River Irrigation System, best known today as Lassen Irrigation District. It began, in 1875, when Leavitt constructed a small reservoir, east of Johnstonville, known today as Leavitt Lake. One of the interesting anecdotes Alphozene relayed to me about her grandfather, was on occasion she made him breakfast—it consisted of two raw eggs put in a glass of rock & rye whiskey.

Leavitt Lake
Leavitt Lake, 1938

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Whitehead Slough

Whitehead Slough, with Honey Lake in the background, July 26, 2019

After the Susan River passes near Standish it breaks up into sloughs, some are natural and others man-made like Hartson Slough. The Whitehead Slough was named for John Wesley Whitehead (1845-1939) who relocated from Pyramid Lake in 1886, and settled along the banks of this slough, which is located between the Dakin and Fleming Wildlife Units. In 1920, he retired to Pacific Grove, California, which was also known as Honey Lake Heaven, since so many people from the Honey Lake Valley retired there in the early 1900s.

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Menopause Manor

Lassen County Courthouse, 1938. Courtesy of Jere Baker

This being the day after Christmas, I am checking to see if I have anyone’s attention. One of the questions I am asked from time to time, is where I received my education after graduating high school. After all, that is a turning point in a young persons life, with a variety of options—community college, university, trade school or the school of hard knocks. I accidentally stumbled on an entirely unique venue for a very different kind of education and enrolled at the exclusive Menopause Manor housed in the second floor of the Lassen County Courthouse. In my initial quest to research the local history all paths led to the courthouse to examine the original documents. One of the main repositories is that of the County Clerk’s Office. Little did they know that on fateful first visit, that I would return daily like the proverbial bad penny. After awhile they finally took me under their wings, while for several years they put up with my relentless questions. What I learned from these wonderful women, how the court system functioned, county government and a myriad of things in between one cannot obtain through the traditional educational system. My thanks to Jackie Fuller, June Nelson, Betty Hibbs, Sue Farstad, June Moller, and, of course, the Manor, had to have male token, my old side-kick Bruce Dyer.

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Merry Christmas, 2019

A Lassen College Christmas Card

Alas, I do not have a Christmas story today. It should be noted for the record that prior to 1900 a community Christmas tree was placed inside Susanville’s Methodist Church.

Susanville’s Methodist Church, circa 1896. Courtesy of Philip S. Hall

Jack Rabbit Tamales

Madeline Depot
NCO Depot, Madeline 1910

In the early 1900s the Madeline Plains was home to numerous desert homesteaders. It turned out for many to be a hardscrabble existence, not what they were promised by the developers.

Life on the plains can be challenging. A menace there were jackrabbits. In 1920, the residents wrote their Congressman John E. Raker for assistance and explained the situation. They reported: “As soon as the crops are up and making good progress the rabbits begin work on them.  The heaviest damage is done during August.  One rancher reported losing 100 acres of wheat last summer.  They take this crop in preference to oats and rye.  It was reported that 70 tons of rabbit meat [to make tamales] had been shipped last season to the San Francisco market.  It appears that the animals cannot be killed fast enough in this region to furnish relief to the ranches.” That is not a typo, 70 tons—the rabbit population had to be epic.

Now to the tamale part. It is not clear who came up with idea of jackrabbit tamales. Don Garate in his history of the Madeline Plains wrote: “Oh they did not make any great deal of money by hunting jackrabbits, but it made a little cash for spending. What they did was to kill the creatures and ship them to the Crown Commission Company in San Francisco, where they were made tamales out of them. The Crown Commission Company paid as high as four dollars a dozen for them. After shipping and handling charges had been taken out by the railroad that left the hunter about two dollars a dozen.

“Two dollars a dozen does not sound like much, but money was real scarce in those days and it did not take long to knock over a dozen of jackrabbits. They would shoot the animals, gut them and put them in gunny sacks. The rabbits would freeze solid in the sacks. Then when they had enough, or after awhile when someone was going to town, they would haul them to the railroad depot.

“The sacks full of rabbits would pile up on the dock at the depot until there was enough to make a shipment on the train. After a couple of weeks, a check would come back in the mail from the Crown Commission Company for each person who sent in a shipment of jackrabbits.”

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Harvey Railroad Logging Line

The railroad bed converted into a road at Camp Harvey. Courtesy of Hank Martinez

In 1942 this railroad logging line had its origins at Halls Flat, near Poison Lake, headed into an easterly direction towards Harvey Mountain. By 1949, its entire length was just a bit over forty miles ending near Slate Mountain. When the culinary workers at the two logging camps along the line—Harvey and Stanford—went on strike in the spring of 1949, Fruit Growers Supply Company who operated the line decided to shut it down permanently. It was not a drastic action as it appears. They were approaching the end of their timber. In addition, company officials, stated the remaining timber could be removed from and shipped from its Camp 10 line as it approached Upper Gooch Valley. After all, the Harvey line and Fruit Growers Main line that serviced Camp 10 were within two miles of each other.

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Roop Street versus Weatherlow Street

North Roop Street, circa 1914. Courtesy of Phil Long

This is just one of those random thoughts to invade my mind during my recovery. It has to do with when a town plat for Susanville that was made in 1863. Roop and Weatherlow Streets need to be reversed. This has to do with logic. Captain William Weatherlow lived at what became the end of North Roop Street. On the other hand, Isaac Roop who laid out the town originally resided on what became North Weatherlow Street.

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Exploring Lassen County's Past